1.1 Fixed-length titer unit
Denier (D): Refers to the weight in grams of a 9000-meter-long fiber or yarn at given moisture regain. For example, 1500D polyester raw silk means that the raw silk is measured 9000 meters, and its weight is 1500 grams. Others follow and so on.
Special number (tex): also called number, refers to the weight in grams of a 1000-meter-long fiber or yarn under certain moisture regain. For example, 167tex polyester raw silk means that the raw silk is measured 1000 meters, and its weight is 167 grams. Others follow and so on. In the domestic industrial yarn and downstream products rubber canvas industry, people are more accustomed to using dtex instead of tex.
Decitex (dtex): refers to the weight in grams of a 10,000-meter-long fiber or yarn under given moisture regain. For example, 1870tex nylon raw silk means that this raw silk is measured 10,000 meters, and its weight is 1870 grams. Others follow and so on.
1.2 Custom-made titer unit
Public count (Nm): refers to the length in meters of a 1-gram fiber or yarn under certain moisture regain. For example, 20 public cotton yarn refers to the corresponding length of 1 gram of this cotton yarn is 20 meters. Others follow and so on.
British count (Ne): Refers to the multiples of 840 yards (0.914 meters) that a 1-pound fiber or yarn length has at given moisture regain. For example, 20 inch cotton yarn refers to 1 pound (453.6 grams) of this cotton yarn and its corresponding length is 20 840 yards (ie 840×0.914×20 meters). Others follow and so on.
1.3 Application of fixed-length titer units and fixed-weight titer units
1) Standard logo
In terms of standard identification: for example, the specifications of industrial yarn are 1100dtex, 167tex, 2000D, etc.; the identification of cotton yarn is 10Ne, etc.; the identification of cord fabric is 1100 dtex/2, etc. The warp structure of EP-300 is identified as 1100 dtex/4 etc. Therefore, the titer unit has a wide range of applications in standard identification.
2) Visually judge and compare the thickness of fibers from the fineness value
Both kinds of titers are measurement units that represent the fiber or yarn titer, but: in the custom-made titer unit, the larger the value, the thicker the fiber, and vice versa; the larger the value in the custom-made titer unit, representing the finer the fiber, and vice versa. The titer value and the thickness in the two measurement units are in the opposite direction.
2.1 Moisture regain rate
Moisture regain refers to the percentage of the moisture content in the textile material to the dry weight of the textile material, and the moisture regain is an index indicating how much moisture the textile material absorbs.
2.2 Actual moisture regain
The moisture regains measured under actual atmospheric conditions.
2.3 Standard moisture regain
Moisture regains measured under standard atmospheric conditions (temperature 20+/-2°C, relative humidity 65+/-3%).
2.4 Conventional moisture regain
In trade and cost accounting, in order to record the weight and check the price, the state makes uniform regulations on the moisture regain of various textile materials, which is called the public moisture regain.
3.1 Moisture content
The percentage of moisture contained in a textile material by weight relative to the moisture content of a textile material.
4.1 The role of twisting
The two sections of the sliver are rotated relative to each other, and the fibers in the sliver that were originally parallel to the yarn axis are inclined into a spiral. When the sliver is stretched by an external force, the inclined fibers will produce centripetal pressure on the yarn axis, so that there is a certain friction force between the fibers, which is not easy to slip off, and the sliver has a certain strength. For short fibers, twisting is a necessary means of yarn formation. For filament yarns and strands, the twist is to create a tight action that is not easily destroyed by lateral forces. The amount of twist and the combination of twist direction and twist in the yarn and fabric is closely related to the performance of the finished product and many physical properties.
4.2 Twist
When the yarn is twisted, the relative number of turns of the two sections is called the twist number. The number of twists per unit length of yarn is called twist. The length unit of the special number system twist is 10cm or 1m.
5.1 Density
Fabric density refers to the number of yarns per unit length in the weft and warp directions of the fabric and is divided into warp density and weft density. Warp density, also known as warp density, is the number of warp threads per unit length of the fabric along the weft direction. The weft density, also known as the weft density, is the number of weft threads per unit length of the fabric along the warp direction. Warp density and weft density is expressed in root/10cm.
6.1 Creep phenomenon of fibers
Under the condition of constant tensile external force, the process in which the deformation of the fiber increases gradually with the continuation of the force-time is called creep. Due to the existence of the creep phenomenon, after a textile material is subjected to a load less than the breaking strength for a long time, the elongation at break will be reached due to the continuous increase of elongation, so that the textile material will break.
7.1 Fatigue properties of fibers
Fatigue is divided into static fatigue and multiple stretching fatigues.
Rest fatigue is the phenomenon of fracture under prolonged action of a constant tensile load less than the breaking strength.
Multiple tensile fatigues is a phenomenon in which the fiber or yarn is subjected to repeated cycles of loading and unloading multiple times. Because of the gradual accumulation of plastic deformation, the internal part of the fiber is damaged, forming cracks, and finally being destroyed.
8.1 Initial modulus
Fiber load elongation – the stress-strain ratio of the initial straight-line part of the curve, when the straight-line part is not obvious, the ratio of load to elongation and linear density (tex) at 1% elongation can be taken, in N/ tex. The size of the initial modulus indicates how easily the fiber deforms under a small load, which reflects the stiffness of the fiber. If the initial modulus is large, it means that the fiber is not easily deformed under a small load, the rigidity is good, and the product is relatively stiff; on the contrary, the initial modulus is small, the fiber is easily deformed under a small load, the rigidity is poor, and the product is relatively soft. The initial modulus of polyester is high, and the polyester fabric is stiff; the initial modulus of nylon is low, and the nylon fabric is soft and has nobody’s bones.
9.1 Terms and definitions related to yarn in the process of twisting, weaving, and dipping
1) Twisting length of the bobbin: the length of the fiber or yarn wound on the bobbin after twisting.
2) Wool: The cord is fluffed due to yarn abrasion or raw silk.
3) Oil-stained yarn: Yarn contaminated by oil.
4) Wrong denier silk: The same kind of raw silk in production, different deniers are not distinguished, resulting in wrong denier silk.
5) Package forming: the shape of the thread (silk) on the package after twisting.
6) Rattan-twisted silk: One (several) first-twisted silks is like a strand of rattan wrapped around other first-twisted silks.
7) Undrafted yarn twisting in: The undrafted strands of the raw yarn are twisted onto the bobbin and are not removed.
8) Knotted yarn: The yarn tension is too large to embed and affects the untwisting.
9) Single-twisted silk: the silk that is twisted due to missing strands when multiple strands are twisted.
10) Double-twisted yarn: twist one or more strands more than the specified requirements.
12) Damaged and deformed paper tube: The paper tube is incomplete, incomplete, and deformed.
13) Connector wire tail length: the maximum length from the connector to the wire tail.
14) a Wrong number of total warp: The total warp of the cord fabric does not match the process.
15) Tight warp: The warp has a large difference in warp tension and obvious tension stripes.
16) Warp (Weft) Density: Warp (Weft) line density exceeds the specified value.
17) Rough knots: rough knots produced due to uneven fiber arrangement or flying flowers attached to the yarn.
18) Strong twist or weak twist: After twisting, the twist of the cord exceeds the specified twist range, which is called a strong twist or weak twist.
19) Obvious strong twist or weak twist: the twist of the cord exceeds or falls below the specified requirements.
20) Oil stains: Oil stains on the cloth surface are distributed in lumps instead of linear.
21) Selvedge silk tail: the weft line segment outside the edge warp.
22) Menstrual breakage or disengagement: Menstrual breakage refers to the breakage of the meridian, and disengagement refers to the disengagement of the knot.
23) Interval broken weft: Interval broken weft. Continuous missing weft: consecutive empty wefts.
24) The length of the headcloth: the part of the cord fabric with thick weft yarn and large weft density is called the headcloth, and its length is the length of the headcloth.
25) Jumper (or parallel): The warp that should be interwoven is not interwoven with the weft as a jumper.
26) Fabric width: the width of the fabric.
27) Uneven roll posture: The unevenness of the cloth layer at both ends of the rolled cloth is the uneven roll posture.
28) The cloth shaft and the shaft center are protruding: the cloth layer near the wooden shaft of the cloth shaft is protruding.
29) Poor hemming: The hemming does not meet the requirements due to the hemming device or other reasons.
30) Weaving waste weft yarn: the weft insertion device brings the scrap weft yarn into the cloth surface or brings it into the cloth surface and weaves it in.
31) Edge density: The edge density exceeds the standard.
32) Mixed silk: silks of different materials, different strands, and different origins are mixed.
33) Requirements for seam head: length of seam head is 4-4.5cm, number of needles is 30-35, and thread tail is less than or equal to 3mm.
34) Cloth knot: Refers to the double twisted thread manual sewing head or knotter joint.
35) Parallel head: The adjacent warp and weft are exactly the same as the parallel head.
36) Adhesive strength (H-out): The force required to pull out the cord from the H-shaped rubber-cord test piece, expressed in N/cm.
37) The amount of glue attached: the ratio of the glue quality in the dipped cord to the quality of the blank card, expressed in %.
38) Elongation at constant load: the elongation of the cord under the specified load, expressed in %.
39) Breaking strength: the force required to break one or a bundle of fibers, in N.
40) Breaking strength: For fibers, it refers to the maximum tensile force that each tex (or per denier) fiber can withstand, in N/tex or N/d.
41) Elongation at break: the percentage of the length of the fiber stretched to the original length when it is stretched to break, indicating the ability of the fiber to withstand tensile deformation, expressed in %.
42) Dry heat shrinkage: the percentage of the original length of the fiber or yarn of known length that shrinks after being heated under the action of specified temperature, time, and load, expressed in %.
43) Cord fabric: Use strong strands as warp threads, medium and fine single yarns as weft threads, and use skeleton fabric for woven tires. Cord fabric is used as the skeleton material of rubber products such as tires so that it can withstand huge pressure, impact load, and strong vibration. The warp threads bear the load and the weft threads hold the warp threads. The requirements for the cord fabric are high strength and initial modulus, heat resistance, fatigue resistance, structural stability, and the ability to bond with rubber.
- The application of fixed-length titer units and fixed-weight titer units
- Standard identification
In terms of standard identification: for example, the specifications of industrial yarn are 1100dtex, 167tex, 2000D, etc.; the identification of cotton yarn is 10Ne, etc.; the identification of cord fabric is 1100 dtex/2, etc. The warp structure of EP-300 is identified as 1100 dtex/4 etc. Therefore, the titer unit has a wide range of applications in standard identification.
- Intuitively judge and compare the thickness of fibers from the fineness value
Both kinds of titers are measurement units that represent the fiber or yarn titer, but: in the custom-made titer unit, the larger the value, the thicker the fiber, and vice versa; the larger the value in the custom-made titer unit, representing the finer the fiber, and vice versa. The titer value and the thickness in the two measurement units are in the opposite direction.
- Computing Applications
Mastering the unit of fineness can be flexibly and conveniently applied to the calculation of each link:
Such as: knowing the size and weight of a strand, you can calculate its length. Assuming that the weight of a 1670dtex yarn package is 10 kg, the calculation of its length is:
10×1000÷1670×10000＝59880(meter)
For example, knowing the spinning and winding speed and production specifications, it is possible to calculate the single-cylinder output within a certain period of time. Assuming that the wind speed is 6000m/min and the specification is 1100dtex, the output of continuous production for 30 minutes is as follows:
6000×30÷10000×1100=19800g=19.8kg
Other titer units are analogous, and the emphasis is on mastering and understanding the concept of titer.
- Conversion between units
In the actual use process, there are often cases where unit conversion is required. After mastering the above unit concepts, it is very easy to convert units to each other. The following formula can be obtained through calculation, for example, 1 tex = 10 dtex, 1 denier = 1.11 dtex.
If you are not used to using formula memory, you can also convert through the simplest concept conversion method. The basic formula is:
length/weight = length/weight
for example
Example 1: It is known that a kind of raw silk is 1670dtex. When calculating its denier, it can be done as follows: 10000/1670=9000/x, then the required denier x=1503D≈1500D
Example 2: It is known that yarn is 10Ne, and the calculation of its dtex can be carried out as follows: 10×840×0.9144/453.6=10000/x, then the required denier x=590.5dtex.
Example 3: It is known that yarn is 10Nm. When calculating its special number (tex), it can be carried out as follows: 10/1=1000/x, then the required special number x=100tex.
Conversion between linear density indicators
The conversion formula of deceit and special number Ndtex÷Ntex=10
Conversion formula of denier and metric count Nden×Nm=9000
The conversion formula of tex and metric count Ntex×Nm=1000
The conversion formula of tex and denier Nden÷Ntex=9
For pure cotton yarn, the imperial metric moisture regain is 9.89%, and the tex metric moisture regain is 8.5%, so the conversion relationship between imperial count and tex is Ne=583/Nintex
For purified fiber yarn (including chemical fiber and chemical fiber blended), the metric and inch metric moisture regain is the same, and the conversion formula of inch count and tex is Ne=590.5/Ntex
The inch count of a combed yarn refers to the number of 560-yard lengths in 1 pound of yarn at given moisture regain. The inch count of a carded yarn refers to the number of 1600 yards of length in 1 pound of yarn at given moisture regain (called carded yarn).