With the advent of autumn and winter recently, the temperature is getting lower and lower, which also tests the dressing skills of trendsetters. Compared with the bulky down jacket and heavy coat on the upper body, fleece is undoubtedly a more “alternative” choice. In addition to the advantages of warmth retention, air permeability and weight, the improved version and color matching of fleece in the past two years has reactivated the fashion DNA. It perfectly balances the “demeanor and temperature” and meets the personalized matching needs of young people for “folding and wearing”. It can be said that fleece has become an indispensable piece in our wardrobe in winter.
So what is fleece? Now let’s introduce the basic knowledge of polar fleece.
Definition of polar fleece
Fleece (also known as cashmere) is a kind of knitted fabric, which is woven by a large circular machine. After weaving, the grey fabric is dyed first, and then processed by a variety of post-treatment processes such as raising, carding, shearing and shaking. The front side of the fabric is raised, and the shaking particles are fluffy and dense, but it is not easy to shed and pilling. The back side is raised sparsely and evenly, the wool is short, and the texture is clear, fluffy and elastic.Features
- Its ingredients are generally polyester and feel soft. It is the first choice to keep out the cold in winter. In addition, fleece can also be combined with any other fabric to make it better against the cold (fleece and fleece, fleece and denim, fleece and lamb, fleece and mesh, with waterproof and breathable film in the middle, etc.).
- Classification by raw material source
- ① Staple fiber (hemp grey fleece)
- ② Long fiber (low elastic fiber DTY, optical fiber FDT).
- In general, the price of short fiber fleece is higher than that of long fiber fleece, and the long fiber fleece is mostly used to make blankets.
- Classification by style category
- ① Single brush and single shake
- ② Double brush and double swing
- ③ Double brush single swing
- ④ Single brush and single shake composite
- ⑤ High temperature falling water (hemp ash)
- Classification by variety
- ① Monochrome
- ② Color bar
- ③ Strip grid
- Fleece is mainly used to make the lining of clothes (generally, full polyester 150d96f fleece, “d” thickness, “F” number) and can also be used to make bedding, carpet, coat, jacket, vest, windbreaker, clothing logo, gloves, scarf, hat, pillow, cushion, shoes and toys.
The development process of polar fleece
Fleece was produced in Taiwan in the early 1990s. In the mid-1990s, it was also produced in Quanzhou, Fujian Province. It is generally Taiwan’s technology. Later, polar fleece was also produced in Zhejiang, Changshu, Wuxi, and Changzhou. Among them, the quality of fleece in Jiangsu is better, and the price of fleece in Zhejiang is lower. Polar fleece can be divided into plain color and printing. Plain color polar fleece can be divided into strip polar fleece, embossed polar fleece, jacquard polar fleece, etc. according to individual requirements. According to different paddle materials, printed fleece has more than 200 varieties, such as penetration printing, glue paddle printing, transfer printing color strips, and so on. This fabric has novel and unique patterns, rich and colorful colors, natural and smooth lattice, and is favored by people from all walks of life.
Production technology of polar fleece
- Process flow
Blank inspection – dyeing – soft pre-set – finishing – drying – raising – Carding – shearing – high temperature steam shaking – setting – coiling – Inspection and delivery
- White cloth production
Sd-60 and sd-60a single side Terry machines produced by Taiwan Sanda company are generally used.
High temperature and high pressure overflow jet dyeing machine is generally used. It can not only adjust its running speed, nozzle pressure and diameter according to the variety structure of fabric, but also linearly automatically prompt feeding and automatically control temperature rise and fall, so as to better ensure its dyeing quality. After dyeing, the fabric needs to be dewatered by centrifugal dehydrator and cut by high-speed slitting machine.
- Drying and post setting equipment
These two kinds of process equipment adopt eight zone hot air needle plate stretching and setting machine, but it is not necessary to dry the predetermined type and then set it after rolling. This equipment is a combined machine, which can be completed at one time by rolling, drying, stretching and finalization. It is composed of preparation part (rolling car), heating part and cooling part. Shaoxing xintianjin company adopts Shanghai Yicheng fine printing and dyeing machine, model kst10, power 380V, 50Hz. According to the gram weight of fabric, the setting parameters are different. For example, the gram weight of fabric is 285, the general heating parameter is 158 degrees, and the cloth running speed is 29m / min.
The frequency conversion pilling machine is generally used for polar fleece, such as the mb335b pilling machine of yingyou textile machine and the pilling machine of Taiwan East Asia gear machinery factory. Its characteristic is that the operation mode is mechanical transformation gear, which is driven by gear and chain. There are 24 pilling rollers with a diameter of 62mm. Generally, one line is equipped with 6-7 raising machines, of which two are reverse raising and the other are positive raising. The cloth feeding speed is generally set to 18m / min.
The brushing machine generally adopts digital brushing machine, touch screen control and belt drive, which has high production efficiency. For example, sme485 and sme485c series brushing machines in yingyou textile machine are generally configured with two for three production lines, one brush on the front and no brush on the back. Generally, the working parameters are set as follows: cloth walking speed 35m / min, cylinder speed 80-110rpm (depending on the cloth), The tension is set to 1.00, 1.01, 1.03 and 1.04. The bristle force is determined according to the gram weight of the fabric. Generally, the gram weight is 15-20 and the gram weight is 8-15.
In general, the shearing machine can meet the requirements once. The shearing machine is composed of round knife, flat knife and support, such as yingyou textile machine mb314 shearing machine (round flat blade imported from Germany), Changzhou tonghuang shearing machine, Changzhou Changfang shearing machine and Shanghai chirong shearing machine. Generally, one shearing machine can be equipped for one production line. The quality of shearing directly affects the quality of shaker, while the length of shearing affects the style of products. In order to reduce the cost and minimize the shearing loss, just cut off the brushed hair and hair of different lengths to make the facial hair neat. Process parameters: the cloth speed is generally 30-40m / min, the rotating speed of the round knife is 1000rpm, and the tension is moderate.
This process is mainly completed by the granulator. It is composed of air jet device, blowing device and granulator main frame. The operation mode is touch screen control. It can operate automatically as long as various required working parameters are set. However, not all products use the above equipment. For example, plush and ant cloth, you only need to brush the hair without shaking or cutting. Different finishing equipment shall be selected according to different products. Generally, the shaking time of ordinary fabric is controlled at 20 minutes, the temperature is controlled at 46-60 degrees, the heating timing is 20 minutes, the cooling timing is 20 minutes, and the steam timing is 20 minutes. The setting parameters are different according to different materials. The untwisted fabric needs to be untwisted after shaking, such as Shaoxing Jingchuang untwisted fabric machine equipped with Shaoxing xintianjin needle spinning.
The products need to be finalized before rolling, such as Taiwan ligenbao finalizing machine adopted by Zhejiang Tianshi company and Zhongshan Huangji finalizing machine adopted by Shaoxing Jianzhong. If the customer has requirements for the density of the fabric, a single back brush should be done before setting.
Generally, a set of winding movable device with telescopic lifting and falling capacity is arranged under the frame of the coiler. The movable arm of the winding device is long or short, wide or narrow, and the transmission mechanism adopts DC motor to drive sprocket and chain transmission mechanism. The coiling cart is composed of frame, wheel, top wheel, cloth roll bearing seat, etc. its main function is to take away the cloth rolled by the coiler for printing and dyeing. At present, the winders used by customers include Shaoxing Jinlong, Shaoxing Sanlian, Shanghai teshikang, etc. for example, Shaoxing Guangxing cloth inspection winder adopted by Shaoxing Shenhui ironing.
- Ex warehouse
The products can be sold out of the factory after being rolled and inspected.
What machine makes polar fleece?
Hanma terry knitting machine is a knitting machine used to knit Terry knitted fabrics. While weaving the ground tissue with the ground yarn, the terry yarn is fed. Terry yarn and ground yarn are woven together. The sinker or crochet of the knitting machine lengthens the coil sinker arc of the terry yarn to form a Terry. Terry fabrics are suitable for clothing, household goods, and some industrial materials. There are many kinds of terry knitting machines, including weft knitting machines and warp knitting machines. The more widely used is the single needle bed multi triangle machine model. The ground yarn and terry yarn are respectively padded on the jaw and nose of the sinker through the yarn guide, and are in the needle mouth of the tongue needle at the same time, as shown in the figure on the previous page. After weaving, the ground yarn on the jaw of the piece forms the ground tissue of weft-knitted flat needle tissue, and the terry yarn on the nose forms a circle with the ground yarn and forms an elongated settlement arc on the opposite side of the fabric. Knitted fabrics with different Terry lengths can be woven by using sinkers with different height differences between jaw and nose. On the terry knitting machine, a jacquard device can also be installed to control the inlet and outlet of the sinker, so that the terry yarn sometimes forms a circle on the jaw of the sinker and sometimes on the nose, and the fancy Terry knitted fabric can be knitted. The terry knitting machine also has a double-needle bed circular weft knitting machine. The tongue needle on one needle bed hooks the ground yarn and the terry yarn to weave into a circle at the same time, and the tongue Free Crochet on the other needle bed only hooks the terry yarn to lengthen the settlement arc of the terry yarn coil to form the terry knitted fabric, as shown in Figure B on the above page. By changing the relative position between the tongue Free Crochet and the tongue needle, loops of different lengths can be woven.